By a Man Who’s Eaten Everywhere (Twice)
There’s a certain audacity to opening a Greek restaurant in Dubai — a city that already does a rather good impression of the gods. The whitewashed minimalism, the turquoise sea, the heady scent of salt and ambition — it’s all here. But Bakalis by ENVY, the latest culinary jewel at Th8 Palm Dubai Beach Resort, isn’t content to merely look the part. No, Bakalis wants to feel like Greece — barefoot, soulful, and just a touch flirtatious.
The first thing that hits you isn’t the view (though the sunset over the Gulf is enough to make Apollo pause), but the aroma — smoky, citrusy, faintly wild. Two cast-iron grills crackle in full view, perfuming the air with lamb, lemon, and the smug satisfaction of knowing you’ve booked the right table.
I’ve dined on the islands themselves — from languid lunches in Paros to late-night feasts in Athens where time ceases to matter — and I’ll admit, Bakalis gets dangerously close. The tzatziki is light and confident, the fava smooth and golden, the dolmades unapologetically traditional. Then comes the warm tide: grilled eggplant with feta that hums with salt and sun, zucchini chips engineered for addiction, and squid that could make a fisherman weep.
The mains are meant to be shared, though you won’t want to. A traditional moussaka that’s all comfort and no cliché, chicken souvlaki served with a lemon rice so fragrant it could be bottled, and lamb chops that belong in the Iliad. Every dish whispers of Greece but speaks Dubai’s language — generous, glamorous, and subtly competitive. And then, of course, dessert. Loukoumades, golden and wicked. Bougatsa so delicate it might levitate. A pistachio baklava that tastes like a love affair in a marble courtyard. It’s a sweet finale that lingers, like the last rays of sun clinging to the Palm.
Chef Faisal Albaradie, the mastermind behind the resort’s culinary direction, isn’t your average toque-and-tweezers chef. His career reads like a novel — teenage dishwasher turned executive chef, former in-flight maestro for Etihad, now the creative pulse behind Th8 Palm’s evolving food scene. There’s a charming lack of pretension in his philosophy: cook what you crave, keep it honest, and let the ingredients seduce. Adding to the mythology is guest chef Ioannis Baxevanis — a big supporter of Greek gastronomy who highly praises Bakalis and its Hellenic heart amid the Dubai gloss. “This is a restaurant that celebrates connection, not performance” said the chefs.
It isn’t trying to be Mykonos on the Palm — it’s more Mykonos in silk loafers. You’ll sip rosé by the carafe, feel the sand underfoot, and pretend you’ve escaped — not to Greece, exactly, but to a version of it that’s filtered through the lens of Dubai: shinier, smoother, impossibly photogenic.
The Verdict
Bakalis is the rare Dubai restaurant that doesn’t shout for attention; it simply earns it. Come for the view, stay for the baklava, and leave smugly satisfied that you’ve found your new secret sunset spot — at least until the rest of the city catches on. Visit www.th8palmdubai.com to discover more!
By: Lucas Raven
